Experimented with developing a kodak color film in normal black and white chemistry (D-76, at 20 degrees for 9:30 minutes) with a little home bleach after the fixing stage. The negatives came out denser when compared to otherwise properly developed color film. Shot with a medium format Yashica D; the 35 mm was balanced in the middle of the camera's back.
Straight inversion of color negs, black points set accordingly from curves function. Straight inversion without setting black point.
Saturday, March 31, 2007
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Photographer pundit
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3:17 PM
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Friday, March 23, 2007
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Photographer pundit
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10:12 AM
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cooling the developer temperature to 20 degrees. I gave up waiting
and went with 25 degrees. I suspect the thermometer wasn't
very accurate either.
and went with 25 degrees. I suspect the thermometer wasn't
very accurate either.
Note to self: maybe wear gloves next time. Hands starting to feel unsually dry. Hmmm.
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Photographer pundit
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9:42 AM
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30 minute frustration

I can only phantom the joy of seeing your prints "develop"
in the developing bath after overcoming a half hour of mega frustration
trying to load my roll film onto the developing reel.
It started when I removed the roll in the dark, and suddenly
I couldn't tell which was head and tail. The harder bit was
telling which was film and which was backing paper. I thought
what I was feeling felt utterly weird; unfilm like texture...but the piece
of backing material was so long, I was going..shit that's gotta be the film.
So I spent 2o mins trying to load the stupid backing into the reel..which is virtually
impossible. Until I decided to scavange through the whole
role did I come accross something that felt more like film. Loading
took 5 minutes from then. Joy.
Now, onto developing.
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Photographer pundit
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7:57 AM
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Wednesday, March 21, 2007
Saturday, March 17, 2007
So you want to shoot a nightclub scene, or any action scene with supernatural low ambient lighting? here are some of your options...
a) you don't.
b) you use that magic green button
c) you play around with different color balance, keep your noise level down,
sacrifice sharpness and play around with your flash strength
b) you use that magic green button
c) you play around with different color balance, keep your noise level down,
sacrifice sharpness and play around with your flash strength
The ones below were shot at ISO 200 with "shade" as white balance
and a slow/rear flash sync ( basically flash that fires at the end of the
exposure and superimposes a sharp image over all that handshake motion)
and a slow/rear flash sync ( basically flash that fires at the end of the
exposure and superimposes a sharp image over all that handshake motion)

Aperture Priority, 2.5" with Manual Flash at about 1/4th strength,
but, with an ISO of 800 that explains the short shutter speed
and blown highlights. Though it renders cathy quite cute as a
one of those comic character drawn without a nose though,lol
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Photographer pundit
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6:18 PM
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Friday, March 16, 2007
Monday, March 12, 2007
F8, 1/100s at iso 200. 3 Steps
below S-16, overcast 5pm, with
custom white balance of the
lady's top. No Levels/Curves adjustments.
Nikon D50, (sRGB I)
below S-16, overcast 5pm, with
custom white balance of the
lady's top. No Levels/Curves adjustments.
Nikon D50, (sRGB I)
Posted by
Photographer pundit
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7:13 AM
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on the Yashica D. Turns out the bodies flash
holder wasn't sturdy enough to support the weight

Me attempting to load a Kodak Tmax 100, before
reading the following "load in subdued light".
reading the following "load in subdued light".
12 noon at the park, where else was I going to find subdued light??
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Photographer pundit
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6:10 AM
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Sunday, March 11, 2007
Tuesday, March 06, 2007
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Photographer pundit
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5:08 PM
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